Category Archives: Technology

Home Theater Upgrade Ups & Downs

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When I first began to write this article, it was going to be all about how terrible the manuals and user interfaces are for home theater components, especially receivers. By the time I was done, I wound up taking a broader view. But don’t worry. I’ll get to the manuals mess before the end.

The immediate impetus for this story was my recent purchase of a new AV receiver, my first one in twelve years. I bought a Denon AVR2112CI (which is a slightly upscale version of the more popular AVR1912). Overall, I couldn’t be more pleased. It’s a fabulous receiver.

The upside

Compared to my old Sony STR-DB930 receiver, the sound quality is much improved and the difference is immediately noticeable. Apparently, technology has advanced over the last decade. Who knew? It also helps that the Denon is a more expensive higher quality unit out of the box. [To be clear, I have a separate components setup; this is not one of those “all-in-one” home theater systems.]

However, improved sound quality was actually second on my list of top reasons for getting a new receiver. The number one item had to do with the more mundane topic of connection ports. Over the years, the emphasis of audio-video receivers has steadily tilted more in the direction of video. This is most evident with HDMI ports. My old Sony has zero HDMI ports. My new Denon has seven HDMI inputs (six input and one output).

With the Sony receiver, I was forced to separately connect the audio and video coming from each peripheral (such as my DVD player). The audio went to the receiver (typically via a digital optical or coaxial cable), the video went to the TV via HDMI. This meant that I was not getting any potential benefit of HDMI for audio. More troublesome, my HD-TV has only two HDMI ports. This meant I could not even use HDMI for the video of all my HDMI-capable devices.

With the Denon, all my devices can now connect to the receiver via HDMI. The receiver’s lone HDMI output cable goes to the HD-TV — which carries the signal from all the connected components. In essence, the Denon receiver is now a true audio and video hub! All roads lead to to and from the receiver! This is a major shift from the previous generation of devices.

A related benefit of the new arrangement is that you no longer need to switch TV inputs when switching among different devices. Before, I would have to make sure that both the television and the receiver were “synced” to the same device. For example, if I wanted to switch from my cable box to my DVD player, I would need to switch the input selector to DVD for both the TV and the receiver. Now, all I need to do is select DVD on the receiver’s remote and I’m done. All components feed to the same television input (although some trouble with Comcast developed here, as I’ll get to shortly). Actually, I still prefer my Logitech Harmony Remote for doing this switching, but even here things work a bit more smoothly.

Another bonus with the Denon receiver (having nothing to do with HDMI) is that it supports Apple’s AirPlay (audio only). AirPlay on the Denon works great. With my iPad on my lap, I select my desired music and it plays through the Denon. Just like that. I can even control the Denon’s volume from the iPad. Very slick. You’ll need an Ethernet connection to get the Denon on the network, as it has no Wi-Fi option. In my case, I connected the Denon to an AirPort Express I was already using in the same room. Once on the network, the receiver supports other network options, including Internet radio, Pandora, and even my iTunes Library.

The other receiver I had considered getting instead of the Denon was the Pioneer VSX-1021-K, currently the only other model in this mid-range price category that includes AirPlay. The Panasonic is a fine receiver, with some advantages over the Denon (the Pioneer does have wireless and even Bluetooth options). However, in the end, I preferred the Denon. At the time I bought it, the Denon retailed for $600; Denon appears to have just upped the price to $650, making the 2112 a bit less attractive. In contrast, the Pioneer 1021 and the Denon 1912 are both $550.

The downside

Amidst all this sunshine, there are two small clouds of discontent. These are not issues unique to the Denon and are certainly not deal-breakers. But they are annoying.

• Comcast and receiver conflict. After I connected my new (black) Comcast cable box to the HDMI port on the receiver, the display settings on the cable box kept getting messed up (returning to 4:3 and 480p instead of the required 16:9 and 1080i). This meant I was not seeing HD when watching HD channels.

Fixing these settings required going into a “secret” Comcast screen (you have to press Power and then Menu on the Comcast remote to access it). The fix didn’t help in the end. The settings would screw up again after turning the devices off and back on. The only permanent fix is to connect the cable box’s HDMI port directly to the TV (with an optical cable going to the receiver). This, of course, means reverting back to the type of setup I had with my Sony, partially defeating one of the advantages of the new receiver.

The primary source of this problem is the new Comcast cable box (older models did not show this symptom). It’s not specific to the Denon; I had the same exact Comcast glitch with the Pioneer 1021. Hopefully, Comcast will eventually offer a firmware fix that addresses the matter. I suspect this bug also plagues new-generation cable and satellite boxes from other companies, but I cannot confirm this.

[Update: I have since learned that a primary cause of the problem is HDMI hand-shaking. As part of the DRM-restrictions built into HDMI (under pressure from the film industry as an anti-piracy measure), an HD transmission will not work with displays that are not “HDMI-compatible.” The firmware that checks for this compatibility is often not smart-enough to figure out what is going on when you have a receiver intervening between the cable box and the television. It winds up believing that this is a violation and shuts down the HD transmission. Such is the case with the HDMI checking built into the Comcast cable box. That’s why it works when connecting directly to a TV, but not to a receiver.]

• Manuals from hell. Setting up the Denon receiver was more difficult than I had anticipated. I needed to call tech support twice before I got everything working correctly. By comparison, I have never previously had to call tech support to setup any AV component. [In this case, “tech support” meant calling the people at crutchfield.com, where I purchased the Denon. They could not have been more helpful. I highly recommend them.]

Part of the problem is that these devices are complicated, much more so than years ago. But making matters worse is Denon’s poorly written manual (and its equally confusing on-screen settings menus).

By this, I don’t mean the manual is written in poor English. Although this is a common complaint about AV device manuals, the Denon does a decent job here. Rather, the problem is that the manual assumes the reader understands much more than the typical (or even atypical) reader will actually understand.

Here’s one example. Do you want to set up your speakers via a bi-amp connection? Do you even know what that means? I didn’t at first. Denon’s manual “helpfully” explains:

“You can use the front speakers via the bi-amp connection. A bi-amp connection is to connect separate amplifiers to the tweeter terminals and woofer terminals of speakers compatible with the bi-amp function. This prevents the back electromotive force (returned force without output) of the woofer sent to the tweeter, which affects the sound quality of the tweeter, and you can enjoy playback with higher-quality sound.”

Yes, it’s all so clear now. Not. In too many other cases, the manual tells you how to change the settings for some oddly named feature — but fails to adequately explain what each setting does or why you might need to make a change.

To be fair, other competing models aren’t any better. In fact, setting up a Pioneer 1021 is even more difficult than a Denon (according to reports I’ve read online) and its manual is more obtuse (as I can confirm from my own comparison). The Pioneer remote is also more daunting to master.

Manuals and set-up for other components (such as Blu-ray players) are not nearly as bad in this regard. Receivers are in a category all by themselves.

Fortunately, you typically need to go through the setup only once. And once you’re done, the hard part is over. In my case, after the Denon receiver was finally up and running, it was a pleasure to use. I had at last arrived at the fun part: enjoying superb sound and crystal clear HD video. Break out the popcorn. It’s time to watch a movie. See you later.

[Coming to my setup later this year: A new (3D?) television? Maybe. I’ll let you know.]

The iPad Pro

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Question: Does the iPad 2 need better specs to better compete with the other tablets on the market?

Answer: First off, this is a trick question. Most of the promised iPad competitors aren’t on the market as yet. There are the Android-based Motorola Xoom and Galaxy Tab (neither of which have really reached the end of their gestation periods as yet). And that’s about it. We’re still waiting for the tablets from HP and RIM and presumably others.

Even so, I expect the answer to be “No.” Apple has argued (successfully in my view) that what matters most is not who has the fastest processor or greatest amount of RAM or largest higher-definition screen. What really matters is which platform delivers the better overall experience. That’s why, as pointed out in a PCMag article, Apple doesn’t even list the megapixel size of the iPad’s cameras — or tell you how much RAM is installed.

If the iPad’s screen resolution is good enough to be stunning, if its speed is adequate for all that you do — a small deficit of specs won’t affect purchase decisions by today’s consumers. Plus, there is all that the iPad can do that its competitors can’t…starting with working as an iPod for your music and continuing with the unmatched collection of apps in the App Store.

Add to to all of this the fact that “he who gets to dominate the market first typically stays first” — even when late-coming competitors offer marginally better products. According to some reports, Apple had as much as 100% of the tablet market in 2010 and can be expected to hold on to most of that share in 2011. Unless a competitor comes up with a “game-changing” device, don’t expect any of them to successfully challenge the iPad. I know some people will point out that Android has taken a lead in market share in the smartphone arena. But this is different. There are no two-year phone contracts with tablets and they are not linked to a specific carrier. In fact, I suspect the majority of iPad buyers don’t even get a 3G model. Android devices will have a much tougher time gaining share here.

Finally, as I argued in a User Friendly View column (and as echoed by a New York Times analysis), a key — perhaps the key — factor that gives the iPad 2 an unbeatable edge is its lower price. When you can get the caché of Apple (who usually extracts a premium for its products) and spend less money than on a competing device, why consider anything else?

Yes, I’d like to see the iPad 2 have better cameras (the ones included now really suck and are not at all what I expect from Apple). And sure, Apple could throw in a bit more RAM. Oh, and how about a Retina Display? But are the lack of these features going to get me to consider buying something other than an iPad? No way. And I’m far from alone. Just ask all the people who still can’t get an iPad because demand has far outstripped supply.

The iPad Pro

All of that said, trying to accurately predict the future in the technology universe is ultimately a fool’s errand. The time may yet come when Apple will feel compelled to compete on specs. Assuming that time comes, how might Apple fight a spec war without sacrificing the iPad’s price advantage?

To get the answer, Apple need look no further than its laptops: The MacBook and the MacBook Pro. Why not make a similar distinction for the iPad: The iPad and the iPad Pro?

The iPad 2 (and its successors) would remain the iPad and maintain a starting price no higher than $499. The iPad Pro would offer all the features that might otherwise give the competition some advantage — and sell for about $150 more.

Developers might have a few problems making sure their apps are compatible with both lines of iPads. But I don’t expect this to be a major hassle. Otherwise, it should be smooth sailing.

In one move, Apple can claim to have both the least expensive tablet and the most feature-packed one. Game. Set. Match.

P.S. Some have predicted that an eventual “iPad Pro” will be a combination of the MacBook Air and the iPad. To me, that’s a different animal, separate from what I am considering here.

Angry Birds Seasons St. Patrick’s Magic Blocks

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Yet one more in my series of posts about Angry Birds….

Rovio taketh away. Rovio giveth back (sort of).

As I discussed previously, the Seasons Greedings section of Angry Birds Seasons contained a secret feature called “magic spots” (also called “magic Santas”). Knowing how to activate these Santas could lead to otherwise-impossible-to-get incredibly high scores. Unfortunately, Rovio considered these Santas to be a bug — and removed the feature in the Seasons update that added the Hogs & Kisses (Valentines Day) section.

With the latest Go Green, Get Lucky (St. Patrick’s Day) update, Roxio has not restored the magic Santas. But it has given players a new “magic” feature in the Go Green section. This time it is not a bug — so you can be rest assured it will stay put in future updates.

I am talking about the “magic” wooden blocks. These are the ones that have a clover-leaf icon. These blocks can be found in (at least) four levels of the Go Green section: 1, 6, 11, and 14. Here’s how they work: If you hit/destroy a special “magic” clover (which will be one specific clover of the several scattered about the display), the corresponding magic block(s) explode.

As an easy example, check out level 11. With your first shot, hit the chair at the upper far right in such a way that it knocks over the pot of gold behind it. The pot will fall and hit the TNT below, destroying the clover to its left. This is the “magic” clover. It will cause the “magic” block in the center of the wood construction to explode. The result is that, with your next shot, you’ll have an easier time getting the rest of the wood structure to collapse.

Unlike the magic Santas, exploding these magic blocks will not necessarily lead to a higher score than you could otherwise get. At least that has been the case for me. In particular, I did not find the magic blocks to be helpful for levels 1 or 6. They were useful, however, with levels 11 and 14.

For level 11, the magic block caused me to alter my strategy. Rather than go for the chair on the first shot (as just described), I crashed the yellow bird into the thin vertical block at the lower left, hitting with enough force to continue and damage the thicker block behind it. With my second shot, I dropped the egg bomb near the front of the chair, aiming in such a way as to get the pot to fall (and hopefully also destroy the piles of gold coins around the chair leg). When the TNT explodes and the clover is destroyed, triggering the magic block effect, the entire wood structure typically collapses (thanks to the groundwork of the first shot) — leading to a higher score than I could get any other way.

Does the new Angry Birds Rio have any similar “magic” feature? I don’t know yet. If you find one, let me know.

Magic Santa downgrade. Still unhappy about the loss of the magic Santas? After getting my iPad 2, I used my original iPad to test out my theory that I could downgrade to an older version of Angry Birds — so as to access the removed “magic Santas” while still retaining my current high score. I can confirm that it worked. The procedure is somewhat of a hassle; I don’t recommend it unless you have some time and patience. Here is a list of the steps:

  1. Use PhoneView (or similar Mac OS X application) to save your current Angry Birds Seasons high score file to your Mac (as covered in more detail here).
  2. Delete the current version of Angry Birds Seasons both from your iOS device (e.g., iPad) and from the ~/Music/iTunes/iTunes Media/ Mobile Applications folder on your Mac. Make sure you empty the Mac’s Trash.
  3. Put the saved pre-Valentines Day older version of Seasons in the same Mobile Applications folder on your Mac. [Note: If you didn’t save the older version when you had the chance, you are pretty much out of luck.]
  4. Launch iTunes and double-click the app in the Apps section of your Library. If iTunes claims it cannot find the file, accept its offer to let you relocate it.
  5. Sync your iPad to install the older version on the iOS device.
  6. Play the game a bit, to see that it all works — and generating an initial high score file.
  7. Returning to PhoneView, replace the installed high score file with the one you saved in Step 1. You should now be good to go. You can play Seasons Greedings with the magic Santas feature restored.

When done improving your score, reverse the procedure (downloading the app from the iTunes Store if needed) to get the current version of Angry Birds Seasons back — with your new improved score installed. Until then, be sure not to inadvertently update the app by downloading it when you select to “Download All Free Updates” in iTunes.

Speculation re Future of 13-inch MacBook Pro

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Peter Cohen and I had a brief exchange on Facebook/Twitter regarding my speculation about the future of the 13-inch MacBook Pro. For the benefit of those of you not on Facebook, here is a repost of the conversation:

Ted Landau
Idle speculation: Might Apple discontinue 13″ MacBook Pro when updates come out — directing that market to MacBook Air?

Peter Cohen
Interesting idea. Or, what will styling cues and technical changes will the 13-inch MacBook Pro inherit from the MBA?

Ted Landau
Yes. There are now three different 13″ MacBook models: white, Pro and Air. Each other size only has one model. Do we really need three 13″ models? Can Apple redesign the 13″ MacBook Pro to be more like the Air without it being TOO much like the Air? Seemed to me like eliminating the 13″ Pro would be the simplest answer.

Peter Cohen
You’re right – the 13-inch form factor is suddenly very crowded. You speak sense, Ted – the 13-inch MBP is suddenly looking very redundant. Of course, if Apple does something significant to differentiate a 13-inch MBP from the MBA or the MB, that’s a different story…i.e., Sandy Bridge, USB 3, 3D holographic display, sharks with laz0rs, etc.

Update: February 24: Turns out, I was wrong. The new MacBook Pro models announced today include a 13-inch version.